Vegetable Crops Edition

Seasonal updates and alerts on insects, diseases, and weeds impacting vegetable crops. New Jersey Commercial Vegetable Production Recommendations updates between annual publication issues are included.
 
Subscriptions are available via EMAIL and RSS.
 
Quick Links:

NJ Commercial Vegetable Production Recommendations

Rutgers Weather Forecasting - Meteorological Information important to commercial agriculture.

Safely Using Herbicides in Re-Used Plastic Mulch

Crops covered with plastic protection

Plastic mulch and trickle irrigation are expensive. Re-using the mulch for a second crop after the first can be an effective way to spread the cost.

Plastic mulch and trickle irrigation are expensive. Re-using the mulch for a second crop after the first can be an effective way to spread the cost. When the cost of supplies and labor are evaluated, re-using a field with trickle irrigation and black plastic mulch is an attractive idea, but weed control can be a problem.

The herbicides used under the plastic and between the rows of mulch for the first crop must be safe and labeled for use in the second crop. Prefar applied at 6 quarts per acre in a band when the mulch is laid is a good choice for under the plastic. Prefar is labeled for many vegetable crops but ALWAYS check the label to see if the crop you plan to plant is listed on it. Prefar and Gramoxone plus NIS (nonionic surfactant), applied as a shielded banded spray between the rows of mulch, are also labeled for a wide range of vegetable crops. Be sure post plant applications of Gramoxone plus NIS are shielded, applied at low pressure, and a low drift agent is used.

Often the greatest challenge is eliminating the first crop and any weeds in the field prior to planting the second crop in the mulch. No herbicide should be sprayed broadcast over the mulch except Gramoxone, which is quickly broken down by sunlight.

Roundup and other glyphosate products should NEVER be used on plastic mulch. Gyphosate has no residual activity due to strong and immediate adsorption by the soil where it is slowly broken down by soil microorganisms as a food source. On plastic mulch without contact with the soil, glyphosate does not easily wash off the plastic with rain or irrigation. The simple act of letting the root ball in contact with the plastic during transplanting can expose the crops roots to enough glyphosate to cause lasting injury and crop loss!

Residual herbicides must be banded between the rows of plastic mulch, NEVER sprayed broadcast over the mulch. Broadcasting residual herbicides over plastic mulch can increase the risk of washing the herbicide from the plastic into the planting hole when it rains or if you irrigate overhead. Herbicide concentration in the planting hole will be way higher than the safety threshold for any crop! If the herbicide from 1 square foot of plastic washes into the 3 square inch planting hole, that will increase increase 48 times the intended herbicide rate in the planting hole!!! You can certainly not expect good crop safety from any herbicide at 48 times the intended rate! Keep all residual herbicides off the plastic mulch.

In summary, the greatest weed control challenge in re-used plastic is weeds growing under and through holes in the mulch. Gramoxone is broken down by sunlight, so it can be used to kill the first crop and emerged weeds. Consider fumigating under the mulch with a water soluble fumigant injected through the trickle irrigation to provide weed control in the second crop. Disease control may be another added benefit. Remember to wait until the fumigant has dissipated before planting.

Understanding Protectant Fungicides
(FRAC groups M01 – M11)

Protectant (contact) fungicides, such as the inorganics (copper, FRAC group M01) and sulfur (FRAC code M02); the dithiocarbamates (mancozeb, M03), phthalimides (Captan, M04), and chloronitriles (chlorothalonil, M05) are fungicides which have a low chance for fungicide resistance to develop. Protectant fungicides typically offer broad spectrum control for many different pathogens.

Why wouldn’t fungi develop resistance to protectant fungicides? Protectant fungicides are used all the time, often in a weekly manner throughout much of the growing season.

[Read more…]

Understanding The Differences Between FRAC Group 11 and FRAC Group 3 Fungicides

FRAC Group 11 Fungicides

The strobilurin, or QoI fungicides (FRAC group 11) are extremely useful in controlling a broad spectrum of common vegetable pathogens.

You may know some of strobilurins as azoxystrobin (Quadris), trifloxystrobin (Flint), pyraclostrobin (Cabrio), or Pristine (pyraclostrobin + boscalid, 11 + 7). For example, FRAC group 11 active ingredients such as azoxystrobin are also now available generics or in combination products as Quadris Top (azoxystrobin + difenoconazole, 11 + 3), Quilt (azoxystrobin + propiconazole, 11 + 3), or Quadris Opti (azoxystrobin + chlorothalonil, 11 + M5).

All strobilurin fungicides inhibit fungal respiration by binding to the cytochrome b complex III at the Q0 site in mitochondrial respiration. Simply said, the fungicide works by inhibiting the fungi’s ability undergo normal respiration. The strobilurin chemistries have a very specific target site, or mode-of-action (MOA).

Although highly effective, fungicide chemistries like those in FRAC group 11, with a very specific MOA, are susceptible to fungicide resistance development by some fungi. Why is that? In the strobilurin’s, a single nucleotide polymorphism of the cytochrome b gene leads to an amino acid substitution of glycine with alanine at position 143 of the cytochrome b protein.

For us, knowing the specifics on the technical jargon isn’t so important, it’s understanding what is at stake. So, if we hear someone speak about G143A resistance development to the QoI fungicides (where resistance is already known in cucurbit Powdery mildew and Downy mildew), we know what they are talking about and how important it is! So much so, if cucurbit powdery mildew develops resistance to one strobilurin compound it may develop what is known as cross resistance and become resistant to all chemistries in FRAC group 11, even if only one chemistry has been used!

[Read more…]

Preparing for Pepper Anthracnose

Pepper Anthracnose

Pepper Anthracnose

In recent years, pepper anthracnose caused by Colletotrichum spp. has become a significant problem on some farms in southern New Jersey.

Unlike in tomato, where symptoms are only present in mature (red) fruit, pepper anthracnose can infect pepper fruit at any growth stage. Currently, there are no commercially-available bell or non-bell peppers with known resistance to anthracnose. [Read more…]

Anthracnose and Alternaria Leaf Blights in Cucurbit Crops

Anthracnose and Alternaria leaf blight can become problematic in cucurbit crops during long periods of wet, humid weather. Both can cause significant losses if not controlled properly. With the production season quickly approaching, now is a good time to review a few of these important diseases.

Symptoms of anthracnose on infected cucumber leaf.

Symptoms of anthracnose on infected cucumber leaf.

Alternaria leaf blight on cantaloupe

Alternaria leaf blight on cantaloupe (NCSU – G. Holmes)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Anthracnose, caused by Collectotrichum orbiculare, and Alternaria leaf blight (Alternaria cucumerina) produce distinct spots on infected leaves, and in most cases, symptoms begin on the older leaves. With Alternaria, diagnostic concentric black rings will be develop within the spots on infected leaves, often there is a chlorotic (yellow) halo around margins. With Anthracnose, spots always develop on veins on the underside of infected leaves. Often, black setae (hair-like projections) will develop on the veins of infected tissue. These symptoms make for easily diagnosing which disease might be present.

Both pathogens can overwinter on infected plant tissue in the soil for 1 to 2 years, thus extended crop rotations are important. Conidia (spores) develop from dormant mycelium in the soil and are splashed into the canopy causing primary infections during prolonged periods of humid, wet weather causing extended leaf wetness. Secondary infections and spread of both diseases can occur during the production season under favorable conditions for disease development.

Deep plowing debris or the removing of plant debris after harvesting, avoiding overhead irrigation during the production season, and most importantly, choosing cucurbit varieties with resistance are important cultural practices all conventional and organic growers should consider.

Anthracnose and Alternaria are easily controlled with weekly protectant fungicides such as chlorothalonil and mancozeb as long as they are applied prior to the arrival of the pathogen and on a regular basis during favorable disease development. Organic growers can apply copper and other labeled products to help suppress development of these diseases. Complete foliar coverage is critically important for the control of these diseases.

For more information on the control of anthracnose and Alternaria leaf blight in cucurbit crops please see the 2020/2021 Mid-Atlantic Commercial Vegetable Production Recommendations Guide.

Additional Resources:

University of MN Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/diseases/alternaria-leaf-blight

University of Florida: https://plantpath.ifas.ufl.edu/u-scout/cucurbit/alternaria-leaf-spot.html – Images of Alternaria

University of Florida: https://www.growingproduce.com/vegetables/aim-to-keep-anthracnose-out-of-your-cucurbit-crops/ – Additional information on anthracnose

University of MN: https://extension.umn.edu/diseases/anthracnose-cucurbits – Additional information on anthracnose of cucurbits

 

Avoid Sunscald Injury in Transplants

Now that the weather is beginning to cooperate and temperatures are warming up, be cautious about sunscald developing on the stems of transplants, especially those being set onto black plastic mulch. With a little planning ahead potential losses to sunscald injury can reduced significantly.

Sunscald

Sunscald injury on stems of newly transplanted pepper seedlings caused by stems laying against edges of black plastic mulch on hot, sunny days.

A transplant coming straight out of the greenhouse and directly into the field has not been exposed to much direct sunlight. Add that with black plastic mulch and you have a lot of heat aim directly at the tender tissue of the transplant. All transplants should have some time to harden-off outside the greenhouse before going into the field, a day or two, is better than none at all, the longer the better if time and space allow.

Sunscald typically appears as the slow bleaching out of the stem that will typically appear only on one side. Often this starts to appear right where the stem meets the black plastic mulch. In many cases if the stem is touching the mulch, the sunburn will start there and the transplant will begin to fall over as if the stem was broken.

When transplanting, make sure the holes in the plastic are wide enough to keep the stem from coming into contact with it. In some cases growers will fill in the transplant hole with soil to help keep the transplant upright before between-row herbicides are applied. ‘Leggy’ transplants that lay across plastic mulch and even those transplanted onto bare ground are prone to sunscald injury.