Bacterial leaf scorch (BLS) season is officially upon us. Over the last 7 to- 10 days, I have been seeing increasing numbers of red oaks in central New Jersey exhibit the tell-tale symptoms of the disease.
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Touch of Gray
Everybody keeps asking me “any gray leaf spot yet?” And I answer, “why yes, but not where you think.” Gray leaf spot was diagnosed last week on samples of Hakonechloa that were submitted from a central New Jersey nursery grower.
Battling Green and False Kyllinga in New Jersey Turfs
By Jim Murphy
We are seeing and hearing about increasing problems with green and false kyllinga; both are very troublesome invasive weed species that have moved northward into New Jersey. Green kyllinga and false green kyllinga are very similar in appearance, and both are referred to as green kyllinga. Green kyllinga is very difficult to control once large mats form.
These weeds thrive under mowing and are prolific in areas that are poorly drained or frequently wet. If you do not have control over irrigation, encourage property owners to reduce irrigation when you find that the turf is frequently wet during dry weather; excess irrigation makes the problem worse.
Unfortunately for us, there are fewer herbicide options in the cool-season turfgrass market than in warm-season turfgrass market to our south. [Read more…]
Oriental Beetle Treatment Window Closes for NJ Nurseries
In most areas of NJ, the application timing of imidacloprid to nursery containers to achieve best efficacy against Oriental beetle grubs (Anomala orientalis) has now expired. The majority of eggs are laid during late June through early July and by the time August arrives, many of the grubs will have begun to molt into the 2nd instar stage. If imidacloprid is not applied until August, then some root feeding damage may have already occurred & furthermore, the larger instars will be more difficult to control. Generally, the preventative applications should be applied from early June to mid-July to achieve best results.
Next year, some nurseries may want to attempt the new Oriental beetle mating disruption pheromone that is discussed in the second half of this article.
Tough Year for Summer Patch Disease
By Jim Murphy
There are some cultural techniques that can reduce the severity of summer patch disease including:
- Fertilize at no more than 1 lbs. of N per 1,000 sq. ft. per application and 2 lbs. annually)
- Use an acidifying N source (for example, ammonium sulfate)
- Reduce soil compaction (aerify)
- Maintain a slightly acidic soil pH (around 6.0); do NOT lime until pH reaches mid to low 5′s and do NOT attempt to increase the soil pH much above 6.0
- Use seed mixtures (rather than blends) that include tolerant species when seeding hard fescue or Kentucky bluegrass as a major component of the turf. Hard fescue and Kentucky bluegrass (depends on the variety) are sensitive to summer patch.
- Seed with tolerant species which includes tall fescues, perennial ryegrass, and Chewings fescue. Chewings fescue can be damaged by summer patch disease but it is more tolerant than hard fescue as you can see in the image below.
Links below open PowerPoints on summer patch disease prepared by Dr. Bruce Clarke.
Getting to the Root of the Problem; Biology and Management of Patch Diseases
BMPs for the Control of Summer Patch on Annual Bluegrass Turf
Are there Organic Alternatives to Glyphosate?
By Jim Murphy
We receive requests for information on “organic” alternatives to glyphosate (e.g., Roundup), especially for “trim” sprays on paved areas, sidewalks, skin surfaces on ball fields, etc.
The research on organic non-selective herbicides that are being marketed as replacements to glyphosate (for example, Roundup) is growing but it is much more limited that what you can find on more conventional herbicides; however, we have been evaluating some products. Our results indicate that these alternative products are short term “burn-down” products that have the ability to kill small immature plants. On the other hand, large perennial plants, while looking sick to dead soon after being spray, start to re-grow a week or so after being sprayed.
Therefore, we only recommend these alternative products for “trimming” applications on immature (very young, small plants vegetation. These products will be very disappointing if you practice an infrequent “trim” spray schedule (once or twice a year) that is treating a mixture of young and old plants. The immature plants are likely to die but you will find that the large perennial plants will survive and continue to grow once the product’s burn-down effect wears off. [Read more…]