Avoid Sunscald Injury in Transplants

Although the weather has been relatively wet these past few weeks, hotter than normal temperatures have already crept in, thus we need to be cautious about sunscald developing on the stems of transplants, especially those being set onto black plastic mulch. With a little planning ahead potential losses to sunscald injury can reduced significantly.

Sunscald

Sunscald injury on stems of newly transplanted pepper seedlings caused by stems laying against edges of black plastic mulch on hot, sunny days.

A transplant coming straight out of the greenhouse and directly into the field has not been exposed to much direct sunlight. Add that with black plastic mulch and you have a lot of heat aim directly at the tender tissue of the transplant. All transplants should have some time to harden-off outside the greenhouse before going into the field, a day or two, is better than none at all, the longer the better if time and space allow.

Sunscald typically appears as the slow bleaching out of the stem that will typically appear only on one side. Often this starts to appear right where the stem meets the black plastic mulch. In many cases if the stem is touching the mulch, the sunburn will start there and the transplant will begin to fall over as if the stem was broken.

When transplanting, make sure the holes in the plastic are wide enough to keep the stem from coming into contact with it. In some cases growers will fill in the transplant hole with soil to help keep the transplant upright before between-row herbicides are applied. ‘Leggy’ transplants that lay across plastic mulch and even those transplanted onto bare ground are prone to sunscald injury.

Manage your transplant watering schedule

The weather this spring has been relatively wet with a few hot days sprinkled in between. Unfortunately, these weather patterns can cause problems in transplant production, especially when it comes time for watering. Hot days may require more than one watering, and cloudy days may require no water. In either case, growers need to anticipate their transplant water needs without over or under estimating watering. Of course, other factors include the growing media and the plant itself. Lets focus on media, for example, growers using a lighter soilless media, these will dry out much quicker than a heavier media and will require more daily watering (e.g., once in AM, afternoon, and evening). Growers using a heavier media may only have to water once a day, or early in the AM and maybe once more in the PM. Either type of media works fine as long as the weather doesn’t change and it fits the growers needs. Proper transplant watering is all about adjustment. If you have stuck to the same daily watering schedule this spring its very likely you have grossly over or under watered your transplants at some point. And, in all likelihood, grossly over or under watered trying to correct the situation. Uniformity is also key when it comes to proper transplant watering. If you find yourself spot watering out of schedule because some flats dry out quicker than others then most likely your uniformity is off. This is easily done when watering is done by hand with a wand. Poor uniformity can also be the result of transplant flats being set on uneven benches or uneven floors. Much like a field, low spots tend to collect the most water. All of this can lead to uneven transplant growth as well as disease and pest pressure, such as fungus gnat problems. If you are experiencing uneven transplant growth, then most likely your watering is uneven. For transplant growth to remain even, flats need to be watered each time to maximum water holding capacity, where each cell in the flat holds the maximum amount of water. An easy way to see this is to watch for water dripping out the bottom of the flat. As important, flats should also uniformly dry out. Below is an example of tomato transplants that have been pulled from the same flat. You can see the differences in plant height as well as root system formation as a result of uneven watering in a “heavy” soilless media. Cells that have remained on the wet side show poor growth and poor root system development because of a waterlogged cell; whereas cells that have been receiving the appropriate amount of water have much better growth and a nice root ball. The weight test. When was the last time you picked up a transplant tray? Picking up a transplant flat every once in a while will give you an idea of how well your watering schedule and uniformity is. Everyone has picked up a tray that has felt like it has the weight of a rock or the tray breaks apart because of the weight, or when you pick it up and it feels as light as a feather. Doing this is a good way to determine if your soilless media is “heavy” – holds more water than you think or if you have been overwatering on days you shouldn’t be or if you have not watered enough. Consistency is key when watering. Going from an extremely wet to an extremely dry transplant tray is not what you want for the transplant production season. You want consistent soil moisture as much as possible, thus proper transplant watering is all about the proper adjustments and knowing your media.

Root growth in tomato transplants

Differences in soil moisture across a single flat of tomato transplants.

Root growth in tomato transplants

Roots of tomato transplants in a flat that has irregular soil moisture.

Avoid Sunscald Injury in Transplants

The weather has been relatively dry these past few weeks and temperatures are already beginning to warm up this week, thus we need to be cautious about sunscald developing on the stems of transplants, especially those being set onto black plastic mulch. With a little planning ahead potential losses to sunscald injury can reduced significantly.

Sunscald

Sunscald injury on stems of newly transplanted pepper seedlings caused by stems laying against edges of black plastic mulch on hot, sunny days.

A transplant coming straight out of the greenhouse and directly into the field has not been exposed to much direct sunlight. Add that with black plastic mulch and you have a lot of heat aim directly at the tender tissue of the transplant. All transplants should have some time to harden-off outside the greenhouse before going into the field, a day or two, is better than none at all, the longer the better if time and space allow.

Sunscald typically appears as the slow bleaching out of the stem that will typically appear only on one side. Often this starts to appear right where the stem meets the black plastic mulch. In many cases if the stem is touching the mulch, the sunburn will start there and the transplant will begin to fall over as if the stem was broken.

When transplanting, make sure the holes in the plastic are wide enough to keep the stem from coming into contact with it. In some cases growers will fill in the transplant hole with soil to help keep the transplant upright before between-row herbicides are applied. ‘Leggy’ transplants that lay across plastic mulch and even those transplanted onto bare ground are prone to sunscald injury.

Manage your transplant watering schedule

The weather this spring has been relatively normal to date. However, we have had some dry weather these past few weeks. Unfortunately, weather patterns can cause problems in transplant production, especially when it comes time for watering. Hot days may require more than one watering, and cloudy days may require no water. In either case, growers need to anticipate their transplant water needs without over or under estimating watering. Of course, other factors include the growing media and the plant itself. Lets focus on media, for example, growers using a lighter soilless media, these will dry out much quicker than a heavier media and will require more daily watering (e.g., once in AM, afternoon, and evening). Growers using a heavier media may only have to water once a day, or early in the AM and maybe once more in the PM. Either type of media works fine as long as the weather doesn’t change and it fits the growers needs. Proper transplant watering is all about adjustment. If you have stuck to the same daily watering schedule this spring its very likely you have grossly over or under watered your transplants at some point. And, in all likelihood, grossly over or under watered trying to correct the situation. Uniformity is also key when it comes to proper transplant watering. If you find yourself spot watering out of schedule because some flats dry out quicker than others then most likely your uniformity is off. This is easily done when watering is done by hand with a wand. Poor uniformity can also be the result of transplant flats being set on uneven benches or uneven floors. Much like a field, low spots tend to collect the most water. All of this can lead to uneven transplant growth as well as disease and pest pressure, such as fungus gnat problems. If you are experiencing uneven transplant growth, then most likely your watering is uneven. For transplant growth to remain even, flats need to be watered each time to maximum water holding capacity, where each cell in the flat holds the maximum amount of water. An easy way to see this is to watch for water dripping out the bottom of the flat. As important, flats should also uniformly dry out. Below is an example of tomato transplants that have been pulled from the same flat. You can see the differences in plant height as well as root system formation as a result of uneven watering in a “heavy” soilless media. Cells that have remained on the wet side show poor growth and poor root system development because of a waterlogged cell; whereas cells that have been receiving the appropriate amount of water have much better growth and a nice root ball. The weight test. When was the last time you picked up a transplant tray? Picking up a transplant flat every once in a while will give you an idea of how well your watering schedule and uniformity is! Everyone has picked up a tray that has felt like it has the weight of a rock or the tray breaks apart because of the weight, or when you pick it up and it feels as light as a feather. Doing this is a good way to determine if your soilless media is “heavy” – holds more water than you think or if you have been overwatering on days you shouldn’t be or if you have not watered enough. Consistency is key when watering. Going from an extremely wet to an extremely dry transplant tray is not what you want for the transplant production season. You want consistent soil moisture as much as possible, thus proper transplant watering is all about the proper adjustments and knowing your media.

Root growth in tomato transplants

Differences in soil moisture across a single flat of tomato transplants.

Root growth in tomato transplants

Roots of tomato transplants in a flat that has irregular soil moisture.

Neopestalotiopsis – Something to scout for in fall-transplanted strawberry

A fungal disease has been identified in some fall-transplanted strawberry fields in New Jersey. The pathogen, Neopestalotiopsis spp., causes a leaf spot and fruit rot in strawberry. Up until recently, the pathogen was considered a secondary pathogen. However, the disease has been found in strawberry production in FL where leaf, fruit, petiole, crown, and root symptoms were observed, and yield was severely affected. Dieback has been up to 50% in some New Jersey plantings this fall (Fig. 1). Symptoms on infected leaves include brown to tan circular spots (Fig. 2) that under the right environmental conditions will produce numerous black pycnidia (Fig. 3). Fruit infections look similar to anthracnose fruit rot. Growers who have purchased strawberry plants this fall should scout their fields immediately and contact their County Agricultural Agent if suspect plants are found.

For more information on Neopestalotiopsis please see links below from NCSU and FL.

https://strawberries.ces.ncsu.edu/2020/09/a-new-disease-is-emerging-neopestalotiopsis-fruit-rot/

https://vegetablegrowersnews.com/news/neopestalotiopsis-fruit-rot-seen-n-florida-strawberries/

(Article for use with permission only)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Manage your transplant watering schedule

The weather this spring has been anything but normal with the up and downs in the temperature as well as the on and off again sunny days followed by many days of cloudy weather. These types of weather patterns can cause problems in transplant production in the greenhouse, especially when it comes time for watering. Hot days may require more than one watering, and cloudy days may require no water. In either case, growers need to anticipate their transplant water needs without over or under estimating watering. Of course, other factors include the growing media and the plant itself. Lets focus on media, for example, growers using a lighter soilless media, these will dry out much quicker than a heavier media and will require more daily watering (e.g., once in AM, afternoon, and evening). Growers using a heavier media may only have to water once a day, or early in the AM and maybe once more in the PM. Either type of media works fine as long as the weather doesn’t change and it fits the growers needs. Proper transplant watering is all about adjustment. If you have stuck to the same daily watering schedule this spring its very likely you have grossly over or under watered your transplants at some point. And, in all likelihood, grossly over or under watered trying to correct the situation. Uniformity is also key when it comes to proper transplant watering. If you find yourself spot watering out of schedule because some flats dry out quicker than others then most likely your uniformity is off. This is easily done when watering is done by hand with a wand. Poor uniformity can also be the result of transplant flats being set on uneven benches or uneven floors. Much like a field, low spots tend to collect the most water. All of this can lead to uneven transplant growth as well as disease and pest pressure, such as fungus gnat problems. If you are experiencing uneven transplant growth, then most likely your watering is uneven. For transplant growth to remain even, flats need to be watered each time to maximum water holding capacity, where each cell in the flat holds the maximum amount of water. An easy way to see this is to watch for water dripping out the bottom of the flat. As important, flats should also uniformly dry out. Below is an example of tomato transplants that have been pulled from the same flat. You can see the differences in plant height as well as root system formation as a result of uneven watering in a “heavy” soilless media. Cells that have remained on the wet side show poor growth and poor root system development because of a waterlogged cell; whereas cells that have been receiving the appropriate amount of water have much better growth and a nice root ball. The weight test. When was the last time you picked up a transplant tray? Picking up a transplant flat every once in a while will give you an idea of how well your watering schedule and uniformity is! Everyone has picked up a tray that has felt like it has the weight of a rock or the tray breaks apart because of the weight, or when you pick it up and it feels as light as a feather. Doing this is a good way to determine if your soilless media is “heavy” – holds more water than you think or if you have been overwatering on days you shouldn’t be or if you have not watered enough. Consistency is key when watering. Going from an extremely wet to an extremely dry transplant tray is not what you want for the transplant production season. You want consistent soil moisture as much as possible, thus proper transplant watering is all about the proper adjustments and knowing your media.

Difference in soil temperature

Differences in soil moisture across a single flat of tomato transplants.

Difference in soil temperature in plant roots

Roots of tomato transplants in a flat that has irregular soil moisture.