Andy Wyenandt

This is an archive of Dr. Wyenandt's posts on the Plant and Pest Advisory.

Understanding Protectant Fungicides (FRAC groups M01 – M12) in 2024

Protectant (contact) fungicides, such as the inorganics (copper, FRAC group M01) and sulfur (FRAC code M02); the dithiocarbamates (mancozeb, M03), phthalimides (Captan, M04), and chloronitriles (chlorothalonil, M05) are fungicides which have a low chance for fungicide resistance to develop. Protectant fungicides typically offer broad spectrum control for many different pathogens.

Why wouldn’t fungi develop resistance to protectant fungicides? Protectant fungicides are used all the time, often in a weekly manner throughout much of the growing season.

[Read more…]

Diagnosing Spear Damage in Asparagus

Spear damage in asparagus can be caused by diseases such as Phytophthora spear and crown rot and purple spot. However, other environmental factors during the spring can damage spears as they emerge from the soil.

Freeze injury in asparagus

Fig 1a. Freeze injury in asparagus. (Photo by Tom Orton)

Freeze injury in Asparagus

Fig 1b. Freeze injury in Asparagus. Note the color of the interior of the spear. (Photo by Tom Orton)

Freeze Injury – About 10 days ago temperatures dipped well below freezing for a night or two, and combined with the higher than normal temperature this spring, some asparagus fields that had already started to produce spears were hit with injury. Affected spears will be bent/distorted and begin to breakdown and rot (Fig. 1a).

Cutting frozen spears will show the discoloration of the spear caused by the freeze (Fig. 1b).


Fig. 2. Wind damage of asparagus spears. Notice how all spears are pointed in the same direction

Wind – Periods of heavy winds during emergence will cause spears to bend. High winds can cause one side of the spear to dry out quicker than the other causing the spear to bend and point in the direction of the prevailing wind. An asparagus planting is suffering from wind damage if most of the bent spear heads in the bed are pointing in the same direction (Fig.2).

[Read more…]

Controlling Purple Spot on Asparagus Spears

Purple spot, caused the soil-borne fungus, Stemphylium vesicarium, can cause problems in cool, wet springs. Symptoms, just like its name, include numerous, sunken oval-shaped spots on spears during the harvest season and more importantly on ferns and stalks during the summer months as long as conditions are ideal for its development.

Twelve hours of wetness is needed for infection and the disease is exacerbated by wind-blown sand injury. Heavy purple spot infection during the summer will lead to premature defoliation which will decrease carbohydrate reserves for the next production season. With the season we had last year and the wet spring we’ve had thus far this year season, pressure due to purple spot may be high. Control of purple spot can be difficult because of management issues (i.e., the mowing and chopping up and leaving of old fern material in the field) and because fungicides can’t be applied during the harvest season. Growers who had pre-mature defoliation issues last year may expect problems this spring. Remember, controlling purple spot begins with preventative fungicide applications during summer and fall by reducing infections to ferns and stalks. Weekly scouting should be done in the spring and followed up with additional scouting and timely fungicide applications once fern stalks are full size. Apply and rotate azoxystrobin (FRAC group 11) at 6.2 to 15.5 fl oz 2.08F/A with chlorothalonil at 2.0 to 4.0 pt/A.

(Photo by M. Hausbeck, Michigan State University)

Avoid Sunscald Injury in Transplants

Although the weather has been relatively wet these past few weeks, hotter than normal temperatures have already crept in, thus we need to be cautious about sunscald developing on the stems of transplants, especially those being set onto black plastic mulch. With a little planning ahead potential losses to sunscald injury can reduced significantly.

Sunscald

Sunscald injury on stems of newly transplanted pepper seedlings caused by stems laying against edges of black plastic mulch on hot, sunny days.

A transplant coming straight out of the greenhouse and directly into the field has not been exposed to much direct sunlight. Add that with black plastic mulch and you have a lot of heat aim directly at the tender tissue of the transplant. All transplants should have some time to harden-off outside the greenhouse before going into the field, a day or two, is better than none at all, the longer the better if time and space allow.

Sunscald typically appears as the slow bleaching out of the stem that will typically appear only on one side. Often this starts to appear right where the stem meets the black plastic mulch. In many cases if the stem is touching the mulch, the sunburn will start there and the transplant will begin to fall over as if the stem was broken.

When transplanting, make sure the holes in the plastic are wide enough to keep the stem from coming into contact with it. In some cases growers will fill in the transplant hole with soil to help keep the transplant upright before between-row herbicides are applied. ‘Leggy’ transplants that lay across plastic mulch and even those transplanted onto bare ground are prone to sunscald injury.

Manage your transplant watering schedule

The weather this spring has been relatively wet with a few hot days sprinkled in between. Unfortunately, these weather patterns can cause problems in transplant production, especially when it comes time for watering. Hot days may require more than one watering, and cloudy days may require no water. In either case, growers need to anticipate their transplant water needs without over or under estimating watering. Of course, other factors include the growing media and the plant itself. Lets focus on media, for example, growers using a lighter soilless media, these will dry out much quicker than a heavier media and will require more daily watering (e.g., once in AM, afternoon, and evening). Growers using a heavier media may only have to water once a day, or early in the AM and maybe once more in the PM. Either type of media works fine as long as the weather doesn’t change and it fits the growers needs. Proper transplant watering is all about adjustment. If you have stuck to the same daily watering schedule this spring its very likely you have grossly over or under watered your transplants at some point. And, in all likelihood, grossly over or under watered trying to correct the situation. Uniformity is also key when it comes to proper transplant watering. If you find yourself spot watering out of schedule because some flats dry out quicker than others then most likely your uniformity is off. This is easily done when watering is done by hand with a wand. Poor uniformity can also be the result of transplant flats being set on uneven benches or uneven floors. Much like a field, low spots tend to collect the most water. All of this can lead to uneven transplant growth as well as disease and pest pressure, such as fungus gnat problems. If you are experiencing uneven transplant growth, then most likely your watering is uneven. For transplant growth to remain even, flats need to be watered each time to maximum water holding capacity, where each cell in the flat holds the maximum amount of water. An easy way to see this is to watch for water dripping out the bottom of the flat. As important, flats should also uniformly dry out. Below is an example of tomato transplants that have been pulled from the same flat. You can see the differences in plant height as well as root system formation as a result of uneven watering in a “heavy” soilless media. Cells that have remained on the wet side show poor growth and poor root system development because of a waterlogged cell; whereas cells that have been receiving the appropriate amount of water have much better growth and a nice root ball. The weight test. When was the last time you picked up a transplant tray? Picking up a transplant flat every once in a while will give you an idea of how well your watering schedule and uniformity is. Everyone has picked up a tray that has felt like it has the weight of a rock or the tray breaks apart because of the weight, or when you pick it up and it feels as light as a feather. Doing this is a good way to determine if your soilless media is “heavy” – holds more water than you think or if you have been overwatering on days you shouldn’t be or if you have not watered enough. Consistency is key when watering. Going from an extremely wet to an extremely dry transplant tray is not what you want for the transplant production season. You want consistent soil moisture as much as possible, thus proper transplant watering is all about the proper adjustments and knowing your media.

Root growth in tomato transplants

Differences in soil moisture across a single flat of tomato transplants.

Root growth in tomato transplants

Roots of tomato transplants in a flat that has irregular soil moisture.

Identifying and Controlling Pathogens at Transplanting in 2024

It is extremely important to know which pathogen is causing damping-off problems and which fungicide to properly apply. The key to controlling damping-off is being proactive instead of reactive. Always refer to the fungicide label for crop use, pathogens controlled, and application rates.

Damping-off is caused by a number of important vegetable pathogens and is very common at transplanting. Common pathogens that cause damping-off include Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia and Fusarium spp.

Control of damping-off depends on a number of factors. First, is recognizing the conditions which may be leading to the problem (i.e., watering schedule/greenhouse growing conditions) and second, identifying the pathogen causing the problem. Reducing the chances for damping-off always begins with good sanitation practices prior to transplant production.

Conditions Favoring Damping-off

Although all four pathogens are associated with damping-off, the conditions which favor their development are very different. In general, Phytophthora and Pythium are more likely to cause damping-off in cool, wet or overwatered soils that aren’t allowed to dry out due to cloudy weather or cooler temperatures. Conversely, Rhizoctonia and Fusarium are more likely to cause damping-off under warmer, drier conditions especially if plug trays are kept on the dry side to help reduce transplant growth. [Read more…]